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PASSING DESIGN
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Materials
used |
Passing Design |
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Materials
required
Materials
can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the
product information or by purchasing a kit of the Passing
Design or
the Goldwork
Sampler.
Fabric:
For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50
cm) square. For the passing design alone you will need a piece of
silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk Noil
with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has a
closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.
Backing
Fabric:
A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for
added strength (same size as the silk fabric).
Felt:
Piece of yellow felt approximately 4 inch by 3 inch (10 cm by 8 cm)
for the center design.
Thread: A
reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or
Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.
Silk
Thread: 1
skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (2 meters is
required) is used for the red drops. You can substitute a different
colour or different brand of silk thread such as Madeira silk thread
or the DMC floss.
Spangles
(Pailettes):
14 spangles (spangles are sequins) to sew on the design.
Twist:
60 inches (150 cm) of Gold 2% WM No. 1 Twist is used to outline the
red drops. You can substitute with Gilt No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½
Twist. You could also use Super Pearl Purl or No. 5 Smooth Passing.
Passing: 6
yards (5 1/2 meters) of Gold 2% WM No. 5 Passing thread is used for
the center of the design. You can substitute with Gilt No. 5 Passing
thread or No. 7 Japanese gold thread.
Pearl
Purl:
20 inches (50cm) of Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl is used to outline
the passing. You could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl Super or No. 1
or No. 1 ½ Twist.
Tools
required
Tools
can
be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.
A
pair of embroidery scissors.
A
pair of old small embroidery scissors: for
cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades
of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.
Tweezers: A
pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.
Tracing
Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further
explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.
A
stretcher bar frame: The
frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end
of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The
fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You
would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole
Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.
Thumb
tacks: To
pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.
No.
10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.
Bees
Wax:
To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads,
helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred
the thread.
Preparing
the piece for working
Assemble
the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so
that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.
Pin
the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using
thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both
fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in
the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides,
the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For
further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame
go to the following page of my website: Stretcher
Bar Frames
Transferring
the design onto the fabric
Prick
and pounce method:
Place a piece of good quality tracing
paper
over the 'Outline of the Passing Design' below and trace all
the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.
If
you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print
the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler
Diagram
and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use
the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the
design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric. |
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Outline
of the Passing Design
Actual
Size
Using
a Pricker
or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes
along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm
intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all
lines have been pricked.
Do
not prick the horizontal and vertical lines on the tracing paper
with all four designs.
Place
the pricked tracing paper onto the center of the fabric. With the
tracing with all four designs use the horizontal and vertical lines
that cross in the center of the design to help position the fabric.
If
you traced the above design and you think you may want to do all
four designs later, but you are not sure yet, you can place the
tracing paper in the top right hand corner of the fabric. The center
of the design should be 7 3/4 inches (20 cm) from the top and 7 ¾
inches (20 cm) from the right side. You can then add the other three
designs to the fabric later on, or stop after the Passing Design.
Transfer
the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce
(charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design.
Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted
outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a
sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric
with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over,
turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of
the fabric.
Working
the design
Starting
and finishing threads:
Start the thread with the knot on top of the work in an area that you
are about to work. Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a
point of a needle in the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric
rather than stitching over the knot (see diagrams below). To finish
the end of a thread, turn the embroidery over and weave your needle
and thread through the stitches at the back of the work.
Red
drops: Satin Stitch
The
red drops are worked in satin stitch using a single strand of the red
Au Ver A Soie,
Soie D'Alger No. 916 in a No. 10 embroidery needle, you can use a
different colour or substitute with a different brand of silk thread
or embroidery floss.
Bring
the first stitch up at the tip of the drop on the pencil line, take
the stitch across the center of the drop and take the needle down on
the rounded end of the drop (see satin stitch diagrams 1. below).
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Satin Stitch Drops |
Satin Stitch 1. |
Satin Stitch 1. |
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Bring
the needle back up on one side of the tip on the pencil line to so
that the stitch follows the shape of the drop, take the needle down
next to the stitch at the round end of the drop, there should be no
gaps between the two stitches. Continue working one side of the drop
keeping the stitches on the pencil line so that it follows the shape
of the drop (see satin stitch diagrams 2. below). The other side of
the drop is worked from the center stitch to the outside (see satin
stitch diagram 3. below. All the red drops are worked in the same method.
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Satin Stitch 2. |
Satin Stitch 2. |
Satin Stitch 3. |
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Satin Stitch
Close Ups
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Top
Satin Stitch Drops |
Center Satin
Stitch Drops |
Bottom Satin
Stitch Drops |
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Red
drops: Outline and spangles
60
inches (150 cm) of Gold
2% WM No. 1 Twist
is used to outline the red drops. You can substitute with Gilt No 1.
Twist or 1 ½ Twist or Super Pearl Purl or Passing thread.
Leave
a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging from the tip of the drop, using a
single stand of the waxed yellow polyester thread in a No. 10
embroidery needle sew down the gold cord at 1/8th of an inch (3mm)
intervals. Sew each stitch at an angle so that the stitch disappears
in the twist of the gold, give the gold a little twist if the sewing
thread is showing to hide the thread then go onto the next stitch.
Sew around the outside of the cord and work the stitches into the
cord. When you get back to the tip of the drop, leave a 1 inch (2
½ cm) end hanging (see diagram 6. below).
Red
drops with two outlines: Outline
the red drop first, when you get back to the tip continue sewing
down around the tip using the fine tipped tweezers to turn the gold
cord, sew the cord around the outside line back to the tip and leave
an end hanging.
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Sewing
Down Twist |
Sewing Down Twist |
Sewing Down Twist |
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Take
all the ends to the back of the work (called plunging) by threading
the ends into the No. 18 embroidery needle and taking the ends to the
back of the work (see plunging ends diagrams below).
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Plunging
ends |
Plunging
ends |
Plunging
ends |
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Over
sew the ends to the stitches at the back of the work (see diagram of
finishing of ends below). Before finishing of the thread turn the
embroidery to the right side up and sew down a spangle in the top of
each drop, work two stitches over the spangle vertically at the top
and bottom of the spangle.
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Finishing
of ends |
Spangle |
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Center
design
Felt:
Using the pricked tracing paper of the design pounce the center shape
onto the piece of yellow felt. Cut out the felt shape on the pounce
line and place it onto the pencil line on the fabric. Sew down the
felt piece with a single strand of the yellow polyester thread in the
No. 10 embroidery needle sewing from the outside of the felt and down
into the felt at a 90º angle to the felt with small stitches at
¼ of an inch (6 mm) intervals for a length of 1/8th of an inch
(3 mm) (see diagram 10. below).
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Felt |
Sewing Down Felt |
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Sewing
down passing
The
felt shape is worked over with 6 yards of Gold
2% WM No. 5 Passing thread,
you can substitute with Gilt No. 5 passing or No. 7 Japanese gold thread.
Cut
a length of passing 24" long; fold the length in half, nipping
the fold with the fine tipped tweezers so that there is a nice sharp fold.
Using
a single strand of the yellow polyester sewing thread in a No. 10
embroidery needle bring the needle up at the end of the felt shape in
the center and take the needle down over the fold of the gold (see
diagram 11. below).
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Starting the Passing |
First Row of Passing |
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Bring
the next stitch up 1/16th of and inch (2 mm) from the end and sew a
stitch over both lengths of the passing so that any gap at the fold
is closed.
Sew
stitches over the two lengths of passing at ¼ of an inch (6 mm)
intervals, along the center of the felt shape (you can draw a line
down the center of the felt as a guideline using a permanent fine
tipped marker pen such as a Sanford Sharpie). Leave the ends hanging
at the other side of the felt shape.
Work
the second row in the same method as the first row, beginning at the
same side, this time work the stitches in the second row between the
stitches of the first row so a bricking fashion is created with the
stitches (see diagram 11. below). Continue filling in the felt shape
with rows of passing, you may require just a short length on the edge
to cover the felt.
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Sewing down
first row |
Bricking fashion |
Leave ends
handing at top |
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Plunge
all the ends to the back of the work at the edge of the felt and sew
the ends to the stitches at the back of the work as explained with
the No. 1 Twist cord (click here
to see the diagram) .
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Plunging ends |
Plunging ends |
Plunging ends |
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Pearl
Purl
The
passing shape is outlined with 20 inches (50cm) of Gold
2% WM Super Pearl Purl,
you could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl super or No. 1 or No. 1
½ Twist.
Use
a single strand of the yellow polyester thread waxed in the No. 10
embroidery needle. Begin sewing down the Pearl Purl at any position
on the edge of the shape. Sew down the end pearl and then every 3 or
4 pearls by slipping the stitch in the diagonal twist of the gold,
(much like sewing down the No. 1 Twist) sew the stitch at an angle so
that the thread disappears between the pearls of the gold (see
diagram 14. below).
Curve
the gold when working around the curves of the shape. When you get
back to beginning cut the pearl purl so that the last Pearl buts up
against the very first Pearl and sew a stitch over the last pearl so
that it does not stitch up.
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Sewing down
pearl purl |
Sewing down
pearl purl |
Sewing down
pearl purl |
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Passing and
Pearl Purl |
Finished Piece |
Passing and
Pearl Purl |
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Goldwork
Sampler - Passing Design Kits of Supplies
By
purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared
to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the
lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.
To
purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials
and Tools at the top of the page, you will be
directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When
you have decided what you need you can place an order through my
order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit
of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four
designs on one piece of fabric), click
here!
Passing Design
Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)
(KGSPADI) Passing Design Instruction Booklet $15.00 Canadian Dollars
Goldwork
Sampler - Passing Design 2% Gold Threads,
Kit Contents
Off
White Silk Noil Fabric with Design Hand Drawn
on / Muslin
Fabric / Yellow Felt with Design Hand Drawn
on / Reel of Sewing Thread / Skein
of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread /
Gilt #14 Spangles / Gold 2 % WM No. 1
Twist / Gold 2 % WM No. 5 Smooth
Passing / Gold 2% WM Super Pearl
Purl / No. 10 Crewel Embroidery
Needle / No. 18 Chenille Needle
Goldwork
Sampler - Passing Design Gilt Threads, Kit Contents
Off
White Silk Noil Fabric with Design Hand Drawn
on / Muslin Fabric / Yellow
Felt with Design Hand Drawn on / Reel of Sewing Thread / Skein
of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread /
Gilt Spangles / Gilt No. 1
Twist / Gilt No. 5 Smooth
Passing / Gilt Super Pearl
Purl / No. 10 Crewel Embroidery
Needle / No. 18 Chenille Needle
TOOLS
AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE PASSING DESIGN
(TSSF&TT) 17 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $17.00 Canadian Dollars
(TST) Stainless Steel Tweezers, Great Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars
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