|
GOLDWORK
HEART DESIGN
|
Materials Used |
Heart Design |
|
 |
 |
Materials
required
Materials
can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the
product information or by purchasing a kit of the Heart
Design or
the Goldwork
Sampler.
Fabric:
For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50
cm) square. For the passing design alone you will need a piece of
silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk Noil
with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has a
closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.
Backing
Fabric:
A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for
added strength (same size as the silk fabric).
Felt:
Piece of yellow felt approximately 3 inch by 3 inch (8 cm by 8 cm)
for the leaves.
Yellow
String:
Yellow string or crochet cotton (1 meter) to sew down across the
heart for padding.
Thread: A
reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or
Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.
Silk
Thread: 1
skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (2 meters is
required) to sew down the Japanese thread and for the cord around the
heart. You can substitute a different colour or different brand of
silk thread such as Madeira silk thread or the DMC floss.
Japanese
Thread:
1 skein of Japanese Gold thread No. 7 (10 meters is required) to work
the heart. You can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Passing No. 5 or
Gilt Smooth Passing No. 5.
Fine
Rococco:
3 1/2 yards of Gold 2% Fine Rococco to work the leaves. You can
substitute with Gilt Rococco, Medium Rococco, Crinkle Cordonnet
or No. 1 Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist.
Pearl
Purl:
44 inches (110cm) of Gold 2% WM Super Pearl Purl to outline the
leaves, veins and stems. You could substitute with Gilt Pearl Purl
Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.
Tools
required
Tools
can
be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.
A
pair of embroidery scissors.
A
pair of old small embroidery scissors: for
cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades
of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.
Tweezers: A
pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.
Tracing
Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further
explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.
A
stretcher bar frame: The
frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end
of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The
fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You
would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole
Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.
Thumb
tacks: To
pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.
No.
10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.
Bees
Wax:
To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads,
helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred
the thread.
Preparing
the piece for working
Assemble
the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so
that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.
Pin
the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using
thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both
fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in
the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides,
the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For
further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame
go to the following page of my website: Stretcher
Bar Frames
Transferring
the design onto the fabric
Prick
and pounce method:
Place a piece of good quality tracing
paper
over the 'Outline of the Passing Design' below and trace all
the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.
If
you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print
the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler
Diagram
and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use
the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the
design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric. |
 |
Outline
of the Heart Design
Actual
Size
Using
a Pricker
or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes
along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm
intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all
lines have been pricked. Do not prick the horizontal and vertical
lines on the tracing paper with all four designs.
Place
the pricked tracing paper onto the center of the fabric, if you are
going to do all four designs place the tracing paper in the bottom
left hand corner of the fabric, the center of the design should be 7
5/8 inches (19 1/2 cm) from the bottom and 7 7/8 inches (20 1/2 cm)
from the left side.
Transfer
the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce
(charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design.
Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted
outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a
sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric
with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over,
turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of
the fabric.
Working
the design
Starting
and finishing threads: Start
the thread with the knot on top of the work on
the pencil line of the design or in an area that will be covered.
Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a point of a needle in
the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric rather than
stitching over the knot (see diagram below). To finish the end of a
thread, turn the embroidery over and weave your needle and thread
through the stitches at the back of the work.
|
Beginning a Thread |
|
 |
Leaves
Felt:
Each leaf has a layer of yellow felt padding. Using the pricked
tracing paper of the design pounce the leaf shapes onto the piece of
yellow felt. Draw the leaves and vein lines onto the felt using a
permanent fine tipped marker pen such as a Sanford Sharpie).
Cut out the leaves on the pen line and place them onto the design on
the fabric. Sew down the felt leaf shapes with a single strand of the
yellow polyester thread in the No. 10 embroidery needle sewing from
the outside of the felt and down into the felt at a 90º angle to
the felt edge with small stitches at ¼ of an inch (6 mm)
intervals for a length of 1/8th of an inch (3 mm) (see diagram below).
|
Felt |
Sewing down felt |
|
 |
 |
Stems, Stem Tendrils, Leaf
Veins and Leaf Outlines
Stems: The
stems, stem tendrils leaf veins and leaf outlines, are worked in
approximately 44 inches of Gold
2% WM Super Pearl Purl, you can substitute with Gilt
Pearl Purl Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.
Thread
a single strand of waxed yellow polyester thread in the No. 10
embroidery needle. Begin sewing down the pearl purl at the tip of the
bottom left hand leaf, sew down the end pearl and then every 3 or 4
pearls by slipping the stitch in the diagonal twist of the gold. Sew
the stitch at an angle so that the thread disappears between the
pearls of the gold (see diagram 1. below), if the thread does not
disappear, stretch the pearl purl slightly to make room for the thread.
|
Pearl Purl |
Pearl Purl 1. |
|
 |
 |
Sew
down the pearl purl along the center of the leaf (see diagram 2.
below) and along the pencil line of the stem all the way around to
the other side of the design to the bottom right hand leaf. When you
reach the tip of the leaf, cut the pearl purl and sew a stitch over
the last pearl so that it does not stitch up.
|
Pearl Purl 2. |
Pearl Purl 3. |
|
 |
 |
Stem Tendrils:
Using the Gold
2% WM Super Pearl Purl, sew down the first pearl at
the end of the tendril covering the pencil line (see diagram 1.
below). With the aide of a pair of fine tipped tweezers, turn the
pearl purl on the tight curves at the beginning of the tendril,
sewing the pearl purl down every 3 or 4 pearls to where the tendril
joins the stem, carefully cut the pearl purl so that the last purl
buts up against the stem (see diagram 2. below).
|
Pearl Purl Tendrils |
Tendrils 1. |
Tendrils 2. |
|
 |
 |
 |
Leaf Veins and Stems: Using
the Gold
2% WM Super Pearl Purl
work the center leaf first and then the two side leaves. Begin sewing
the pearl purl down at the tip of the leaf, sew the pearl purl down
the vein line and stem to the main stem. Cut the pearl purl so that
the last purl buts up against the main stem.
Leaves: Rococco
3
1/2 yards of Gold
2% Medium Rococco is used to work the leaves. You can
substitute with Gilt Medium or Fine Rococco, Crinkle Cordonnet, No. 1
Twist or No. 1 ½ Twist.
Cut
a length of rococco 3 inches (7 ½ cm) long; leave a short ½
inch (1 ¼ cm) tail of the rococco hanging at the tip of the
leaf next to the pearl purl vein line. Using a single strand of the
yellow polyester sewing thread waxed in a No. 10 embroidery needle
sew over the single strand of rococco at the tip of the leaf at a
90º angle to the edge of the rococco. Sew down the rococco at
¼ inch intervals to the base of the leaf (see diagram 1. below).
|
Rococco Leaves |
Rococco 1. |
|
|
 |
At
the base of the leaf use the fine tipped tweezers to bend the gold
back on itself, (see diagram 2.)
Sew
a stitch in the fold of the rococco, fit the kinks in the second row
of rococco into the kinks of the first row and work the stitches in
the second row between the stitches of the first row so a bricking
fashion is created with the stitches (see diagram 3).
|
Rococco
2. |
Rococco
3. |
|
 |
 |
Thread
one of the ends of the rococco into a No. 18 embroidery needle and
take the needle down through the fabric (at the edge of the felt) to
the back of the work (called plunging, see diagram 4 below). Do the
same with the other end and then over sew the two ends to the
stitches at the back of the work (see diagram 5. below).
|
Rococco Ends 1. |
Rococco 4. |
Rococco 5. |
|
 |
 |
 |
Continue
working the leaf in rows of rococco alternating the stitches in each
row in the bricking fashion so that both sides of the leaf are
filled, there should be no felt showing between the rows of roccoco
and on the edges of the leaf.
|
Rococco
Ends 2. |
Rococco
6. |
|
 |
 |
Leaf
Outlines: Pearl Purl
Gold
2% WM Super Pearl Purl
is used to outline all the leaves, you could substitute with Gilt
Pearl Purl Super or No. 1 or No. 1 ½ Twist.
Sew
the first pearl down at the base of the leaf, where the edge of the
leaf meets the pearl purl stem. Sew the pearl purl down around the
outside of the leaf; (see diagram below) at the tip of the leaf make
a nice sharp bend in the pearl purl using a pair of fine tipped tweezers.
Sew
the pearl purl down the other side of the leaf to where the edge of
the leaf meets the stem, cut the pearl purl so that the last pearl
buts up against the stem.
|
Pearl Purl Outline |
Pearl Purl Outline |
|
 |
 |
Heart
String
Padding:The
heart is padded with approximately 9 horizontal rows of yellow
crochet cotton or string. Run the 25 inch (60 cm) length of the
crochet cotton through bees wax so that all sides of the crochet
cotton is coated and is stiff with the wax.
Using
a single strand of the yellow sewing thread in the No. 10 embroidery
needle, sew a length of string down along one of the pencil lines
drawn on the heart starting at the center. Work a string width stitch
over the string, at a 90º angle to the edge of the sting, sew
down the string from the center of the heart to the edge at 1/8th of
an inch (3 mm) intervals (see diagram 1. below).
At
the edge of the heart cut the length of string sheer to the pencil
line edge, sew one or two stitches over the end of the string so that
the end does not stick up (see diagram 2. below). Carry the thread
back to the center of the string and sew the string down to the other
side of the heart finishing the end of the string in the same method.
|
String 1. |
String 2. |
|
 |
 |
Work
all 9 rows of string in the same method. The row at the top of the
heart is worked in to sections rather than across the opening at the
top of the heart.
|
String |
String 3. |
|
|
 |
Heart: Goldwork
1
skein of No.
7 Japanese Gold thread (10 meters) is required to
work the heart. You can substitute with Gold 2% Smooth Passing No. 5
or Gilt Smooth Passing No. 5.
Cut
a length of Japanese thread 5 inches (12 ½ cm) long: fold the
length in half, nipping the gold with the fine tipped tweezers so
that there is a nice sharp fold.
Using
a single strand of the red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 silk
thread in a No. 10 embroidery needle bring the needle up at the top
center of the heart, and take the needle down over the fold of the
gold (see diagram 1. below).
Lay
the two strands of the Japanese thread vertically down the center of
the heart. Where the two strands cross the pattern drawn on the heart
shape (between the string), bring the needle up on one side of the
Japanese thread, take the thread across the two strands of the
Japanese gold and take the stitch down on the other side, pulling the
stitch tight. Work a second stitch over the first stitch, this will
help anchor the two strands of gold between the strings causing a dip
in the Japanese strands and will form part of the heart pattern (see
diagram 2. below).
|
Japanese Gold |
Japanese Gold 1. |
Japanese Gold 2. |
|
 |
 |
 |
Where
ever the Japanese threads cross the heart pattern (drawn at
intervals between the strings) sew two stitches over the Japanese
threads and anchor them. At the bottom of the heart leave the ends
hanging from the top of the work.Work the second row to the left of
the first row in the same method as the first row, sewing the gold
down in the same pattern as the first row (see diagram 3. below).
|
Japanese Gold Heart |
Japanese Gold 3. |
Japanese Gold 4. |
|
 |
 |
 |
Work
the third row next to the second row, this time sew down the
Japanese Gold in-between the string off set from the stitches in the
first two rows so a new pattern is created on the Japanese gold
threads. Work the fourth row in the same method (see diagram 4. below).
Continue
alternating the position of the stitches every two rows, for the
duration of the pattern (see diagram 5. below), work the other side
of the heart shape in the same method.
Heart -
Finishing Ends: Plunge
4 strands of the Japanese threads on the edge of the heart to the
back of the work and sew all four ends together to the stitches at
the back of the work. Do not take all the gold strands to the back of
the work at once as it will get very messy and it will be hard to
divide up the strands to sew them down.
|
Japanese Gold 5. |
Japanese Gold Ends |
|
 |
 |
Heart: Outline
The
Heart is outlined in a red cord made out of the Au
Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916.
Making a cord: Cut
six single strands of the silk thread each 20 inches (50 cm) long.
Tie the three pieces together at each end with a knot.
With
the help of a friend or reluctant family member, each take a take a
pencil and slip it in-between the three lengths of floss up against
the knot. Keeping the floss and pencils taught, wind the pencils in
opposite directions to each other (see diagram 1. below), slowly the
floss will twist up. Keep turning until the floss is just about to
buckle (if you are both turning the pencil in the same direction the
floss will not twist). One
person now pinches the three threads in the center and pulls down.
The other person takes the two pencils and pulls up; keeping the
threads taught. The person holding the threads at the bottom; with
the other hand pinches the threads together a little way up, letting
the bottom twist up into a cord, this action is repeated until the
whole cord has twisted (see diagram 2. above). Tie the ends off by
threading up a strand of the red floss in the No. 10 needle and
sewing around the ends of the cord so that the cord does not untwist.
|
Making Cords 1. |
Making Cords 2. |
|
 |
 |
SEWING DOWN CORDS
Leave
a 1 inch (2 ½ cm) end of the cord hanging from the top center
of the heart. Using a single stand of the red silk thread in a No. 10
embroidery needle sew down the gold cord at 1/8th of an inch (3 mm)
intervals. Sew each stitch at an angle so that the stitch disappears
in the twist of the cord, give the cord a little twist if the sewing
thread is showing to hide the thread then go onto the next stitch.
Sew around the outside of the cord and work the stitches into the
cord. When you get back to the top center of the heart, leave a 1
inch (2 ½ cm) end hanging (see diagram below).
Plunge
the two ends to the back of the work and over sew the ends of the
cords to the stitches at the back of the work.
|
Sewing down cords |
Sewing down cords |
|
 |
 |
Goldwork
Sampler - Heart
Design Kit of Supplies
By
purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared
to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the
lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.
To
purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials
and Tools at the top of the page, you will be
directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When
you have decided what you need you can place an order through my
order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit
of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four
designs on one piece of fabric), click
here!
Heart Design
Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)
Heart Design Gold 2% Threads,
Kit Contents
Off
White Silk Noil Fabric with the Design Hand Drawn
on / Muslin
Fabric / Yellow Felt with the Design Hand Drawn
on / Yellow
String / Reel of Sewing Thread / Skein
of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread /
Skein of Imitation Japanese Thread / Gold 2% Medium
Rococco / Gold 2% WM Super Pearl
Purl / No. 10 Crewel Embroidery
Needle / No. 18 Chenille Needle
Heart Design Gilt Threads, Kit Contents
Off
White Silk Noil Fabric with the Design Hand Drawn
on / Muslin
Fabric / Yellow Felt with the Design Hand Drawn
on / Yellow
String / Reel of Sewing Thread / Skein
of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread /
Skein of Japanese Thread / Gilt Medium Rococco / Gilt
Super Pearl Purl / No. 10 Crewel Embroidery
Needle / No. 18 Chenille Needle
TOOLS
AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE HEART DESIGN
(TSSF&TT) 17 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $17.00 Canadian Dollars
(TST) Stainless Steel Tweezers, Great Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars
View
the  Shopping
Cart
for mailing costs. |
