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FLEUR DE LYS
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Materials Used |
Fleur De Lys |
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Materials
required
Materials
can be purchased individually by clicking on the links to see the
product information or by purchasing a kit of the Fleur
De Lys Design or
the Goldwork
Sampler.
Fabric:
For all four designs you will need a piece of silk Noil 20 inch (50
cm) square. For the Fleur De Lys design alone you will need a piece
of silk Noil 11 inch (27.5 cm) square. You can substitute the silk
Noil with cotton velveteen fabric, silk Matka or any fabric that has
a closely woven pile and is fairly sturdy.
Backing
Fabric:
A piece of muslin fabric (100% cotton) to go behind the fabric for
added strength (same size as the silk fabric).
Yellow
String:
Yellow string or crochet cotton (4 meters) to pad areas of the Fleur
De Lys.
Thread: A
reel of yellow polyester sewing thread either Guttermans No. 850 or
Mettler No. 767 or match the gold to the closest yellow thread available.
Silk
Thread: 1
skein of red Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 (2 meters is
required) to work areas of the Fleur De Lys design. You can
substitute a different colour or different brand of silk thread such
as Madeira silk thread or the DMC floss.
Check
Purl: 25
inches (62 1/2 cm) of Gold 2% Check Purl No. 6 to work areas of the
Fleur De Lys. You can substitute with Gilt Check Purl No. 6 or Check
Purl No. 8.
Rough
Purl:
20 inches (50cm) of Gold 2% Rough Purl No. 6 to work areas of
the Fleur De Lys. You can substitute with Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or
Smooth Purl No. 8.
Smooth
Purl:
90 inches (225 cm) of Gold 2% Smooth Purl No. 6 to work areas of the
Fleur De Lys. You can substitute with Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or Rough
Purl No. 8.
Tools
required
Tools
can
be purchased by clicking on the links to see the product information.
A
pair of embroidery scissors.
A
pair of old small embroidery scissors: for
cutting gold threads which can dull the scissors blades. The blades
of the scissors need to be small and pointed for cutting precision.
Tweezers: A
pair of very fine tipped tweezers used to bend and hold the gold threads.
Tracing
Paper, Pounce and Pricker: Further
explanation in 'how to transfer a design'.
A
stretcher bar frame: The
frame is made up of wooden bars that are sold in pairs, with the end
of the bars having teeth so that you can slot the bars together. The
fabric is pinned onto the bars of the frame using thumb tacks. You
would require a 18" stretcher bar frame to work the whole
Goldwork sampler or a 10" stretcher bar frame to work the one design.
Thumb
tacks: To
pin fabric onto the stretcher bars.
No.
10 embroidery needle and No. 18 embroidery needle.
Bees
Wax:
To coat the polyester thread before sewing down the gold threads,
helps strengthen the thread so that the gold is less likely to shred
the thread.
Preparing
the piece for working
Assemble
the stretcher bar frame and lay the two pieces of fabric over top so
that the muslin fabric is underneath the silk fabric.
Pin
the two pieces of fabric together onto the stretcher bar frame using
thumb tacks. Pin one side and then the opposite side so that both
fabrics are pulled at the same tension and there are no wrinkles in
the backing fabric or the front fabric. Pin the remaining two sides,
the fabric should be drum tight, with no puckers or wrinkles. For
further instruction of placing the fabric into a stretcher bar frame
go to the following page of my website: Stretcher
Bar Frames
Transferring
the design onto the fabric
Prick
and pounce method:
Place a piece of good quality tracing
paper
over the 'Outline of the Passing Design' below and trace all
the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil.
If
you want to do all four designs on one piece of fabric then print
the actual size picture of the following page: Sampler
Diagram
and trace all the lines onto the tracing paper using a pencil. Use
the horizontal and vertical lines on the diagram to help position the
design on the fabric but do not draw the lines onto the fabric. |
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Outline
of the Fleur
De Lys Design
Actual
Size
Using
a Pricker
or a No. 10 embroidery needle, stuck into an eraser, prick holes
along all the pencil lines of the design at 1/8th of an inch (3mm
intervals). Hold the pricked design up to the light to check that all
lines have been pricked.
Do
not prick the horizontal and vertical lines on the tracing paper
with all four designs.
Place
the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric, if you are going to do
all four designs place tracing paper in the top right left corner of
the fabric, the center of the design should be 8 1/8 inches (20 ¼
cm) from the top and 7 7/8 inches (19 ¾ cm) from the left side.
Transfer
the design onto the fabric by rubbing pounce
(charcoal ground up into a fine powder) over the pricked design.
Carefully lift away the tracing paper; you will be left with a dotted
outline of the design in pounce. Draw over the dotted outline with a
sharp HB pencil taking care not to rub the pounce into the fabric
with your hand. When the pounce dotted outline has been drawn over,
turn the frame over and knock the pounce off by smacking the back of
the fabric.
Working
the design
Starting
and finishing threads:
Start the thread with the knot on top of the work in an area that you
are about to work. Work two tiny stab stitches about the size of a
point of a needle in the design, cut the knot off sheer to the fabric
rather than stitching over the knot (see diagram "Starting a
Thread" below). To finish the end of a thread, turn the
embroidery over and weave your needle and thread through the stitches
at the back of the work.
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Starting a Thread |
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Fleur
De Lys: Padding
String
Padding Location: Sections
of the Fleur De Lys are padded with lengths of yellow string or yellow
crochet cotton,
this is to raise the purl threads that will be sewn over top. Yellow
is used so that when the purl chips are sewn over top, if there are
any gaps between the chips they will be less noticeable. Refer the
diagrams below for the exact location of the string and the number of
strands used.
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String |
String Padding |
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Sewing
Down String
The
Head
of the Fleur De Lys: The
center bar is padded with 7 strands of strings tapering of to two at
the top and bottom. The side bars are padded with 3 strands of string
tapering of to 1 at top and bottom of the band.
Take
a length of yellow string a little longer than the bar to be padded,
refer to diagram "Number of strings" above for location of
string and the number of strands used for each bar.
Double
up the string to the required strands for that bar and then pull all
the strands together through beeswax, so that the string is entirely
coated and stiff with wax. Waxing the string will ensure that it is
firm so that the shape of the padding does not deform when sewing the
purl chips over top and so that no fluffy parts of the string will
stick up between the chips.
Lay
the length of strings along the center of the bar to be padded, the
ends of the string should extend out past the end of the bar.
Begin
sewing down the string at the center. Using a single strand of the yellow
sewing thread
work a stitch over the width of the string at a 90º angle to the
edge of the string, keep the stitch and string within the outline of
the bar (see diagram 5. below). Sew down the string working from the
center to the end of the bar at 1/8 of an inch (3 mm intervals). If
the bar that you are padding begins to get narrower towards the end,
cut away a string (or two) from underneath the top strings so that
the end tapers off and doesn't end in a big bulk of string (see
diagram "Cutting String" below).
At
the end of the bar cut the strings sheer to the pencil line, sew
over the ends of the string with a couple of stitches so that they
lay neatly (see diagram "Sewing Down Ends" below).
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Sewing Down String |
Cutting String |
Sewing Down Ends |
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Work
back to the center of the petal turnover couching down any fluffy or
stray pieces of string that may be sticking up. Work the other side
of the bar in the same method (see diagrams below).
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Sewing Down and
Cutting String |
Finishing off |
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Sewing
Down String: Arms
of the Fleur
De Lys
The
Upper
Arms
of the Fleur De Lys: are
padded with three strings in the wider section tapering of to two
strings then one string in the narrow section, leave a gap between
the upper arm and the head of the Fleur De Lys.
The
Lower
Arms
of the Fleur De Lys:
are padded with one strand of string, leave a gap between the lower
and upper arm.
Always
begin in the center of the section to be padded (see diagram
"Sewing Down String" below), sew down the string with in
the pencil line of the design to the end of the section. Cut away
string from underneath the uppermost strings so that the string
tapers of nicely (see "Cutting String" diagram below).
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Sewing Down String |
Cutting String |
Cutting String
at the End |
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Sew
down the string to the end but do no overlap the pencil line, sew
down any fluffy bits are sticking up. Come back to the center of the
section and sew down the string to the other end.
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Sewing Down Ends |
Cutting String |
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Sewing
Down String: The
Center and Bottom Section of the Fleur
De Lys
The
Center
Section of the Fleur De Lys:
The bars in the center section of the Fleur De Lys are padded with 1
strand of string.
The
Bottom
Section
of the Fleur De Lys:
The bar is split down the center and is padded in two sections. A gap
must be left down the center between the two sections. Pad the
section by sewing down one piece of string, starting at the tip of
triangle that sticks out of the side, work up and down the triangle
and then along the length of the entire section against the center
pencil line leaving a gap down the center of bottom section.
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Bottom Section |
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Fleur De
Lys: Silk Shading
Long and Short Stitch:
The red sections in the head and center section of the Fleur De Lys
are embroidered in red
Au Ver A Soie, Soie D'alger No. 916 in the method of
long and short stitch.
First Row:
The first row of long and short stitch is worked at the top of the
Fleur De Lys. Beginning in the center of the section to be
embroidered, a long stitch is made for about 3/8 of an inch (10 mm)
long. The stitch is worked from the inside of the section and onto
the pencil line at the top of the Fleur De Lys (see diagram 1.
below). The second stitch is worked next to the first for a length of
¼ of an inch (6 mm) long from the inside of the section and onto
the pencil line at the top of the Fleur De Lys. Another long stitch
is worked for the same length as the first stitch and then another
short stitch is worked for the length of the second stitch. This
stitch process is repeated so that both sides of the section are
embroidered covering the pencil line on the top edge and at the side
of the section. It is okay to overlap into the string section (see
diagram 2 and 3. below).
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1. Long and
Short Stitch |
2. First Row |
3. Long and
Short Stitch |
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Second Row and
all Consecutive rows:
The second row and all consecutive rows are worked in the following method.
Bring
the first stitch up in the center of the section, this time bring
the needle up underneath the long stitch in the first row about 1/16th
of an inch from the end of the stitch and split the stitch. Take the
needle down into the fabric about 3/8th of an inch (10 mm) in the
center (see diagram 4. below).
The
next stitch is brought up through the short stitch of the first row
about 1/16th of an inch from the end of the stitch and is taken down
for the same length as the previous stitch but is taken down higher
in the fabric so that the end is off set from the first stitch.
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4. Second Row
and Consecutive |
Long and Short Stitch |
5. Second Row
and Consecutive |
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The
third stitch will be worked in the same method as the first stitch
and the fourth stitch will be worked in the same method as the second
stitch. This stitch process is continued to the edge of the section
(see diagram 5. above). You will notice that this time all the
stitches are the same length but alternate in position.
It
is important to split the stitch in the first row with the needle as
this will ensure that the long and short stitches will blend nicely.
If there are any gaps go back and fill them in before working the
next row.
Fleur De Lys: Gold
The
padded bars of the Fleur De Lys are worked over in three different
types of Purl Gold threads See
diagram of Material Used for the location of the
different type of purl threads.
Purl
threads come as a long hollow tube made off tightly wound gold,
which either has a smooth shiny surface (Smooth Purl), a smooth dull
surface (Rough Purl) or jaggered shiny surface (Check Purl). The
hollow tube is cut up into sections known as chips or beads. These
chips are threaded onto the needle and sewn over the string padding.
Head of the
Fleur De Lys
The
three bars on the head of the Fleur De Lys are worked using Gold
2% Smooth Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2%
Smooth Purl No. 8 or Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or No. 8.
The
smooth gold chips are sewn at 45º angle over the string working
from bottom left to top right.
Thread
up a single stand of the yellow sewing thread into the needle for
about 40 inches (100 cm) double up the thread so that the fold of the
thread is in the eye of the needle. Wax the thread this will give the
thread a smooth surface which helps prevent the gold chips from
unwinding on the thread.
Start
at the center of the band on the left side, thread the chip onto the
needle, sew the chip over the string like a bead and take the needle
down on the right side of the band next to the red silk (see diagram
"Sewing Down a Chip" below), make sure there is no fabric
showing between the end of the chip and the silk.
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Sewing Down a Chip |
Sewing Down a Chip |
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If
cracks appear in the gold and it buckles then the gold chip is too
long (see photo of cracked chip below), if the string and sewing
thread is showing then the chip is to short (see photo of short chip
below) in both cases you will have to take the chip off and
thread up a new one.
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Cracked Chip |
Short Chip |
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Removing a Chip:
Loosen the unwanted chip on top of the work exposing the sewing
thread. Take a hold of the sewing thread with the aide of a Mellore
or tweezers and pull the sewing thread and needle back up through the
fabric. To make the process easier hold the needle vertically
underneath the work so that the eye of the needle is against the
fabric, this will ensure that the needle pulls through the fabric
easily and the thread does not break. Remove the unwanted chip and
thread on a new chip. Keep the wrong size chips as these can be used
in other areas of the band.
Work
from the center of the band to the top and then from the center to
the bottom of the band.
See
diagrams below.
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Sewing Down Chips |
Working the Top Half |
Working the
Bottom Half |
Top of Fleur De Lys |
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Center
Section of the Fleur De Lys:
Smooth Purl
Vertical Bars:
The two bars running vertical on each side of the Fleur De Lys in the
center are worked using Gold
2% Smooth Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2%
Smooth Purl No. 8 or Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or No. 8. Sew down the
chips by starting on one side of the string at the center, sewing the
chips from the left side to the right at a 45º angle to the string.
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Center Section |
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Check Purl
Horizontal Bar:
The Center horizontal bar of the Fleur De Lys is worked in the Gold
2% Check Purl No. 6 you can substitute with Gold 2%
Check Purl No. 8 or Gilt Check Purl No. 6 or no. 8. Work the center
bar beginning at the center sewing the purl chips from bottom left to
top right at a 45º angle to the string (see diagram 18. below).
The Bottom Section
of the Fleur De Lys
The
bottom of the Fleur De Lys is worked in the Gold
2% Check Purl No. 6 and embroidered in two sections.
The bottom 2/3rds is split into two down the center and each side
worked separately. The top 1/3rd (where the section is narrower) is
worked in one section.
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Check Purl |
Bottom Section |
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Left Side of
the Bottom Section:
Sew the first chip from the tip of the triangle on the side of the
section to establish the angel and take the needle down in the gap in
the center of the section. The left side of the bottom section is
worked at a 45º angle to the string working from bottom left to
top right. Work the chips up to the line across the section taking
the chips down in the center of the section between the pieces of
string. Past the line across the section the area gets to narrow to
take the chips down in the center, now take the chips down on the
other side of the section (see diagram "Sewing Down Chips" below).
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Sewing Down Chips |
Left and Top Section |
Bottom Right Section |
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Top of the Section:
Work up to the top of the section covering all the string and keeping
the chips on the outside of the pencil line so that the pencil line
is not showing. At the top left of the section the chips are shorter
so the end of the section finishes of rounded (see diagram "Left
and Top Section" above).
Bottom Left
Section: Come
back to the center of the section next to the first chip sewn down,
work the bottom of the left section bringing the needle up on the
left outside and sewing down the chip in the center of the section
(see diagram "Left and Top Section" above).
Bottom Right Section: The
right side of the section is worked at a 45º angle to the
string working from bottom right to top left. Each chip meets in the
center of the section ensuring there is no gaps between where the
chips from the left section meet the chips in the right section (see
diagram "Bottom Right Section" above).
Arms of the
Fleur De Lys
Upper
Arms: The
Upper arms of the head of the Fleur De Lys are worked using Gold
2% Smooth Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2%
Smooth Purl No. 8 or Gilt Smooth Purl No. 6 or No. 8.
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Left Arm |
Fleur De Lys Arms |
Right Arm |
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Start
in the center of the section. The chips on the left arm are worked
from top left to bottom right at a 45º angle to the string and
the chips on the right arm are worked from top right to bottom left.
As you work around the curve of the arm it may be necessary to spread
the chips further apart on the outside of the arm as the outside is
wider than the inside and it is important to keep the 45º angle,
if you make the chips slightly longer any gap created by spreading
the chips further apart should be filled (see diagrams below).
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Sewing Down Chips |
Upper and Lower Arms |
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Lower
Arms: The
lower arms are worked using Gold
2% Rough Purl No. 6, you can substitute with Gold 2%
Rough Purl No. 8 or Gilt Rough Purl No. 6 or No. 8. Start in the
center of the section (see diagram above) and refer to the
colour picture for the direction in which the chips are sewn down.
Goldwork
Sampler - Fleur De Lys Design
Kits of Supplies
By
purchasing the supplies in a kit you will save money when compared
to purchasing the supplies separately as you will only purchase the
lengths of thread you require to complete the embroidery.
To
purchase supplies individually, click on the links in the list of Materials
and Tools at the top of the page, you will be
directed to the webpage where I sell the particular material. When
you have decided what you need you can place an order through my
order form or by emailing me direct. If you would like a kit
of supplies for the Goldwork Sampler (all four
designs on one piece of fabric), click
here!
Fleur De Lys
Design Instruction Booklet (same instructions as above)
(KGSFDLI) Fleur De Lys Design Instruction Booklet $15.00 Canadian Dollars
Fleur De Lys Design Gold 2%
Threads, Kit Contents
Off
White Silk Noil Fabric with the Design Hand Drawn on
/ Muslin Fabric / Yellow
String / Reel of Sewing Thread / Skein
of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread /
Gold 2% WM Check Purl No. 6 / Gold 2 % WM Rough
Purl No. 6 / Gold 2 % WM Smooth Purl No.
6 / No. 10 Crewel Embroidery
Needle / No. 18 Chenille Needle
Fleur De Lys Design Gilt
Threads, Kit Contents
Off
White Silk Noil Fabric with the Design Hand Drawn
on / Muslin
Fabric / Yellow
String / Reel of Sewing Thread / Skein
of Red Au Ver A Soie Silk Thread /
Gilt Check Purl No. 6 / Gilt Rough Purl No.
6 / Gilt Smooth Purl No.
6 / No. 10 Crewel Embroidery
Needle / No. 18 Chenille Needle
TOOLS
AND SUPPLIES TO WORK THE FLEUR DE LYS
(TSSF&TT) 17 Inch Stretcher Bar Frame and Thumb Tacks: $17.00 Canadian Dollars
(TST) Stainless Steel Tweezers, Great Tool For Bending and Positioning Gold: $5.00 Canadian Dollars
(TSBW) Beeswax or Velvet Board (to cut metal threads on) $1.50 Canadian Dollars
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