COUCHED METAL THREADS There are many types of metals threads that are couched down over felt padding or directly onto the ground fabric. The couching threads can be broken down into two groups. Either the English name, French name or both are given for the metal thread. Click on the links to see pictures and prices of the metal threads.   View Shopping Cart Group 1.  Metal threads that are couched down and the ends of the threads are taken through the ground fabric to the back of the work and secured to the stitches at the back of the work. Group 2.  Metal threads that are couched down and the ends of the threads are cut sheer to the edge of the design on top of the work. Metal threads are packaged in clear acid free plastic or paper bags or tissue paper. GROUP 1. Flat Worm is made up of wire wrapped around a cotton core. The thread is straight and smooth in appearance and turns corners easily when using a mellore. Passing is couched down singularly in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting colour. Japanese Thread is made up of a metal foil wrapped around a thread core. Japanese threads are usually couched down two threads at the time (as it fills in the design area faster) and couched down with the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting thread in a bricking fashion. If sewn down with a contrasting thread the Japanese thread can be couched down in colour in a pattern or with a range of shades, this is known as Or nue. Large Back is made up of wire wrapped around a cotton core. The thread is rounded and smooth in appearance and turns corners easily when using fine tipped tweezers. Large Back is couched down singularly in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting colour. The thread is similar to passing thread No. 4 and No. 5 but is about 3 times the thickness. Smooth Passing is made up of wire wrapped around a cotton core. The thread is straight and smooth in appearance and turns corners easily when using fine tipped tweezers. Passing is couched down singularly in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting colour. Rococco is made up of a wire wrapped around a cotton core. The cord has wavy (kinked) serpentine appearance. Rococco is a similar type of metal as Crinkle Cordonnet, it is not as easy to turn as the Crinkle Cordonnet but the waves in the thread are far more even. Rococco is couched down singularly in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting thread. Standard Lurex Thread No. 371 is made up of gold synthetic thread wrapped around a cotton core. The thread is straight and smooth in appearance and turns corners easily when using fine tipped tweezers. The thread is couched down singularly in the same colour sewing thread or a contrasting colour and can be used for the plaited braid stitch. This thread does not tarnish but has the appearance of a real metal thread. Twists (Torsade) are twisted cords. The twists are couched down by sewing the stitch at the same angle as the twist of the cord so that the stitches hide in the twists and are invisible. A couching down thread of the same colour is used to sew down the twisted cord. GROUP 2. Jaceron is the same thread as Pearl Purl in appearance, but the manufacturing process is slightly different. Jaceron is a wire that is wound into a tight coil that looks like a strand of gold pearls. In manufacturing the wire that is wrapped around the needle to create the coil is slightly larger relative to the needle where as in the manufacturing of Pearl Purl the wire is the same size relative to the needle. The Jaceron needs to be stretched before it is used which enables the couching down thread to slip down between the twists of the gold thread. Tiny stitches are used to sew down the Jaceron at 3 or 4 coil intervals in a thread of the same colour and at the same angle as the twist of the wire so that the thread slips down between the coils and is invisible. Jaceron is used as an outline for designs or in combination with other couched threads as a filling thread for designs such as leaves. Fine tipped tweezers are a great tool to help bend Jaceron. Milliary Wire is a two part thread, consisting of a central core wire, with a coiled wire around it. The Milliary wire is couched down in a thread of the same colour so that the stitches are not visible. Milliary wires are used as outlines for designs or in combination with other couched threads as a filling thread for designs such as leafs. Pearl Purl's is the same thread as Pearl Purl in appearance, but the manufacturing process is slightly different. Pearl Purl is a wire that is wound into a tight coil that looks like a strand of gold pearls. In manufacturing the wire that is wrapped around the needle to create the coil is the same size relative to the needle where as in the manufacturing of Jaceron the wire is slightly larger relative to the needle. The Pearl Purl needs to be stretched before it is used which enables the couching down thread to slip down between the twist of the wire. Tiny stitches are used to sew down the pearl purl at 3 or 4 coil intervals in a thread of the same colour and at the same angle as the twist of the wire so that the thread slips down between the coils and is invisible. Pearl Purls metal threads are used as outlines for designs or in combination with other couched threads as a filling thread for designs such as leaves. Fine tipped tweezers are a great tool to help bend Pearl Purl. Plates there are two types of Metal Plates: 1. Broad Plate is a broad flat shiny metal. 2. Whipped Plate is a broad flat shiny metal plate with a wire wrapped around the plate at an angle. The plates are couched down in a thread of the same colour. The plate is laid by folding the plate back and fourth across the shape, the turn of the plate is on the edge of the shape (the shape should be simple with a smooth edge) the couching down stitches are hidden in the turn of the plate. Spangles (Paillette) are metal sequins and are of superior quality. The spangles are couched down with one stitch that crosses the join of the spangle. Examples of Couched Metal Threads Crinkle Cordonnet A leaf is worked in Crinkle cordonnet over felt padding. A single strand of the Crinkle Cordonnet is couched down at intervals in the kink of the thread for the length of the leaf. The ends of the thread are taken to the back of the work at the top and bottom of the leaf Japanese Gold A Petal is worked in Japanese Gold. Two strands of the Japanese Gold are sewn down over felt padding using a sewing thread of the same colour. Japanese Gold - Or nue             The belly of a Cardinal Bird is worked in Japanese Gold, couched down over felt in the technique of Or nue (using shades of couching down threads to sew down the strands of Japanese Gold). Smooth Passing A leaf is worked in passing thread. Two strands of smooth passing thread is couched down in a sewing thread of the same colour over felt and string. The passing leaf is outlined with Pearl Purl. Rococco A leaf is worked in alternating rows of 2 strands of passing thread and a single strand of the Rococco thread over felt padding. The gold threads are sewn down in a couching thread of the same colour. Twists (Torsade) A leaf is worked in a twisted cord over felt padding. Two strands of the twisted cord are started at the base of the leaf and is turned back and fourth across the width of the leaf and couched down with green thread on the vein lines and the edge of the leaf. Milliary Wire The red s-shape is outlined with Milliary wire. The Milliary is sewn down using a single strand of yellow sewing thread, working a stitch over the main wire and over the loops of the Milliary Wire. The ends of the Milliary wire are not taken to the back of the work so great care is taken to cut the ends so that they meet exactly and are sewn down securely so that they do not stick up and unwind. Pearl Purls (Jaceron) A passing leaf is outlined with Pearl Purl to finish of the edge neatly and then worked down the center of the leaf for the vein. Plates A acorn head is worked in Plate Gold over felt padding. The Acorn head is outlined with Pearl Purl. Spangles (Paillette) A leaf is worked in Rough Purl with a spangle threaded on the end of every third purl. Back to Goldwork Supplies Page!